In a brief visit to Newport, Gwent last year we had taken the train to Abergavenny in order to climb the Sugar Loaf (altitude 596m – a climb of 264m and distance of 9.7km up and then back to the station). From the station we had taken a taxi up to the car park near Mynydd Llanwenarth and from there had followed the main – and generally easy – path up the mountain.

On reaching the summit we had been shrouded in mist and drizzle and the view had been largely restricted to a friendly nearby sheep!

On the way down we had chosen the path on the north east side of St Mary’s Vale, passing through a remarkable forest of ancient trees:

Day 1: The Skirrid/Ysgyryd Fawr

So we returned to Abergavenny this year to celebrate my birthday, with the hope of gaining some better views from the nearby mountains. Our train arrived at 1.30 and we met our friend Mick (who I first met in 1969!) for a tea and chat. He also gave us a lift to the start of the path up today’s mountain – the Skirrid/Ysgyryd Fawr (altitude 486m – a climb of 296m and 4.3km), just outside the town. It was the first in a succession of encounters and acts of kindness that were to make the three days most memorable.

The climb up is initially quite steep, through woodland and conditions underfoot were very dusty after a dry period. However it was worth while to emerge onto the ridge with views over Wales to the west with the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains, and the rather less mountainous English fields to the east.

The ridge walk was altogether more gentle, with continuing views, though the cross wind from the remnants of Hurricane Erin made this rather less appetising than might otherwise have been the case. A merlin flashed by in pursuit of the numerous meadow pipits, and a red kite hung on the air.

We returned to the car park by the same path, and on the way down met a local woman who kindly offered us a lift back into town.

Day 2: Table mountain/Crug Hywel

On the second day we awoke to rain and waited until it cleared to take the noon X43 bus in the direction of Brecon, getting off in Crickhowell/Crughywel, and set off up Table Mountain/Crug Hywel (altitude 451m – a climb of 373m and 6.4km). After just over 1km along a quiet road, we took the track past The Wern farm and then a delightful path, firstly between two hedgerows but then opening up to climb a grassy slope with great views back across the River Usk/Afon Wysg valley.

After the dry summer a wild fire was burning on the moorland opposite.

On reaching open country, you can either go straight up the mountain, or skirt round the eastern flank before climbing up closer to the summit. As Erin was still blowing strongly we took the second option and were sheltered all the way to the summit. The views were stunning west towards the Brecon Beacons…

… north, along the valley into the Black Mountains…

…and east, over the village of Llanbedr towards The Sugar Loaf.

We had been tempted to carry on round the loop down Cym Cumbeth but will save this for another time and a longer day, and instead returned as we had come in time for the return bus.

Day 3: The valley of Grwyne Fawr

On the last morning we again woke to heavy rain and decided to stay at a lower level. We took the X43 bus again, this time stopping at Glangrwyney. We sheltered in the bus stop until the rain eased a little and then set off up the valley of the river Grwyne Fawr. The rain continued with differing degrees of intensity and after a while we met three women walking in the other direction, drenched. The umbrellas we borrowed from the hotel were proving their worth.

We crossed the river by a massive, ancient tree I did not recognise, and continued upstream passing a dipper, grey wagtail and kingfisher until we arrived in the small village of Llangenny. The pub was closed, but the toilets were open, and the publican welcomed us and suggested we open a parasol to shelter from the rain. He re-emerged a little later to comment that we looked most romantic under our parasol, and he then added he was about to make coffee and would we like some.

We carried on a little further to a series of rapids which the rain had brought fully to life.

We had hoped to carry on beyond this point but the rain persisted and we decided to turn back in order to catch an earlier bus before the rain drenched us as well.

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